Suzuki Control Arms for Sale in South Africa
Used, aftermarket and reconditioned parts. Not supplied by Suzuki Auto South Africa.

Part of our full range of Suzuki suspension .
Which Suzuki is it for?
Choose the model and we'll take control arms from there.

Suzuki Swift
hatchback

Suzuki Jimny
suv

Suzuki Ertiga
mpv

Suzuki Vitara
crossover

Suzuki Grand Vitara
suv

Suzuki Baleno
hatchback

Suzuki Ignis
hatchback

Suzuki Dzire
sedan

Suzuki XL6
mpv

Suzuki Fronx
crossover

Suzuki Brezza
suv

Suzuki Ciaz
sedan

Suzuki SX4
crossover

Suzuki Celerio
hatchback

Suzuki Alto
hatchback

Suzuki S-Presso
hatchback

Suzuki Super Carry
commercial

Suzuki Eeco
van

Suzuki Kizashi
sedan
Choosing control arms for a Suzuki without guessing
- What you are really deciding
- Whether to replace only the component that has failed or refresh the whole corner, because everything bolted alongside a worn damper has covered exactly the same distance over exactly the same roads.
- Where Suzuki differs
- South African road surfaces are harsher on suspension than the conditions these cars were originally calibrated for, and Suzuki's lighter kerb weights mean components are sized closer to the limit. The Jimny is its own case entirely: enough of them have been lifted or re-shod that standard-height parts are the wrong answer more often than not.
- Where the car was built
- Something worth knowing about this marque in particular: a large share of the Suzuki range sold in South Africa is built by Maruti Suzuki in India, while the Jimny comes out of Japan. Cars that look the same on the road can therefore sit on different supply chains, which is one reason we would rather check than assume.
- What to send us
- The generation or year, and — if it is a Jimny or a 4x4 derivative — whether the suspension is standard or has been modified. With that in front of us we can normally settle the right control arms without a back-and-forth.
Control Arms, explained
The arm itself almost never fails. What fails is the rubber bush pressed into one end of it or the ball joint pressed into the other, and that is the whole sourcing problem — on many cars the joint is not serviceable separately, so a worn joint means buying the complete arm even though the arm is fine. Ask that question before you order anything, because the answer changes what you are buying.
Potholes are the other half of the story. A hard enough hit does not always leave a mark you can see, but it can bend an arm slightly, and a slightly bent arm gives you an alignment that will not hold no matter how many times it is reset. If a car has taken a serious knock and then started eating the inner shoulder of one front tyre, the arm is worth measuring rather than assuming. Note that a Jimny does not use wishbones at the front at all — its live axle is located by radius arms and a Panhard rod, so the parts and the failure modes are different.
How you know control arms are on the way out
Recognise any of that? Tell us the model and year and we will go and check what we can get hold of for you.
What customers ask about control arms
What decides which control arms fits my Suzuki?
South African road surfaces are harsher on suspension than the conditions these cars were originally calibrated for, and Suzuki's lighter kerb weights mean components are sized closer to the limit. The Jimny is its own case entirely: enough of them have been lifted or re-shod that standard-height parts are the wrong answer more often than not. In practice the decision in front of you is whether to replace only the component that has failed or refresh the whole corner, because everything bolted alongside a worn damper has covered exactly the same distance over exactly the same roads.
What do you need from me to quote control arms?
The generation or year, and — if it is a Jimny or a 4x4 derivative — whether the suspension is standard or has been modified. With that we can usually confirm the right part quickly, and we'll tell you whether we're quoting new, aftermarket or good used rather than leaving you to guess.
Can I just replace the bush and keep the arm?
On some arms yes, with a press and the right adaptors. On others the bush or the ball joint is fitted in a way that makes separate replacement impractical, and workshops will quote you the complete arm because pressing the old one out damages the housing. Find out which type yours is before you buy either part.
Does a Jimny have control arms?
Not in the wishbone sense. A Jimny runs live axles located by radius arms and a Panhard rod, so what wears is the bushes in those arms and their mountings. It is a genuinely different suspension layout to a Swift or an Ignis, and a listing that covers both should be treated with suspicion.
Are the left and right arms the same part?
Usually not — most are handed, and on some designs the difference is subtle enough that a wrong one will bolt up and then fight the geometry. Give us the VIN and the side you need and we will match the exact arm.
Do I need an alignment afterwards?
Yes, every time. The arm sets camber and part of the castor, and the mounting bolts have enough movement in them that even a like for like replacement lands somewhere slightly different. Driving on it unaligned will scrub a front tyre out surprisingly quickly.
Is a used control arm a sensible buy?
It can be, but it has to be checked properly rather than glanced at. Look for a straight arm with no impact damage at the mounting eyes, sound rubber with no separation or crazing, and a ball joint with no play and an intact boot. An arm off a car that has been in a front impact is the one to walk away from.
Further reading on control arms
Independent sources, not ours. Worth a look if you want the background before you enquire.
Camber, castor and toe explained, and why a new arm changes all three.
Background on the steering side, which often gets blamed for a suspension knock.
The official importer site if you need to confirm which derivative you are actually driving.
Looking for something else?
Dampers for Suzuki models, including the rear shocks that work hard on Jimny and Ertiga rear axles
StrutsFront strut assemblies, top mounts and bearings for the MacPherson-strut Suzuki hatches and crossovers
SpringsCoil springs for Suzuki models, including the taller-rate coils fitted under lifted Jimnys
Ball JointsBall joints for Suzuki front suspension and steering — a knock over corrugations and a roadworthy fail when they get play
Sway BarAnti-roll bars and their mounting bushes for Suzuki models, worth checking on anything that has been over a kerb
Tie RodsInner and outer track rod ends for Suzuki steering, plus the rack boots that let them fail early when they split
BushingsRubber and polyurethane bushes for Suzuki arms, subframes and anti-roll bars
CoiloversHeight and damping adjustable coilover kits for Suzuki owners going lower on a Swift or higher on a Jimny
Collection or courier
The identification work is the same wherever the car is — only the last leg differs.
Send the VIN — we'll find the control arms
The generation or year, and — if it is a Jimny or a 4x4 derivative — whether the suspension is standard or has been modified is all we need. We cross-reference it against what we can source and come back with what fits.