Sourcing Suzuki Exhaust

Suzuki's current local range is petrol, so exhaust work here is about catalytic converters and lambda sensors rather than the DPF systems that dominate the diesel marques. Cylinder count is the thing people get wrong: most of the range is a three- or four-cylinder with a single system, but the older Grand Vitara was also sold here as a V6, and a V6 is a different exhaust layout entirely from the manifolds back. The naturally aspirated and turbocharged Vitara derivatives differ from each other too, and the rear-drive Super Carry and Eeco are routed unlike anything else. In practice the decision in front of you is whether the section that has failed can be replaced on its own or whether corrosion has already taken the neighbouring joints with it.

The derivative — on a Vitara whether it is the 1.6 or the 1.4 turbo, and on an older Grand Vitara whether it is a four-cylinder or a V6. With that we can usually confirm the right part quickly, and we'll tell you whether we're quoting new, aftermarket or good used rather than leaving you to guess.

Not in the current South African line-up. These are small three and four cylinder engines with a single exhaust line from the manifold back. Twin tailpipes, crossover pipes and the like are aftermarket styling or performance parts, so if you are shopping for one you are in the modification market rather than replacing an original component.

Usually yes, and it is the sensible approach where the system is bolted together at flanges. Where the original is a single welded assembly, a workshop can cut and weld in a section instead of replacing the lot. What is worth checking first is the condition of the neighbouring sections, because replacing one rusted piece against another that will fail next month is false economy.

It is a known crime in South Africa because converters contain platinum, palladium and rhodium, and the cut takes very little time. The car will be loud, will run poorly and will fail emissions and roadworthy testing until it is replaced. A replacement converter needs to suit your engine and emissions specification, so give us the VIN and we will match the exact part rather than a generic universal unit.

Almost always a hanger. The rubber mounts that suspend the system perish and tear, letting the pipe swing and knock against the underbody or a heat shield. They are inexpensive parts, and replacing them early prevents the strain moving to the joints, which are not inexpensive.

It is a false saving. The car will not pass a roadworthy inspection, the engine management will log permanent faults because the oxygen sensors are looking for a working converter, and the fuelling will not run correctly afterwards. Fitting the proper part for your engine specification is the cheaper route once you account for all of it.